At the ripe old age of 93, John Toomey fulfilled a lifelong dream and opened a barbecue joint in EaDo. He loves his job and says it helps keep him going strong.
HOUSTON — It’s lunchtime at J-Bar-M Barbeque in Houston in EADO, and the smokers are working overtime. Loyal fans say it’s the best barbecue in Texas.
Hours before the crowds line up for heaping plates of brisket and ribs, the work starts early, and at the center of it all is John Toomey, the 97-year-old owner.
“Good morning. Everything Okay?” Toomey asks a staffer during his morning rounds.
He’s here every morning like clockwork, checking on his team, the smokers and the star of the show: the meat.
“It really looks good,” he says, inspecting the brisket. “Good bark.”
Think of Toomey as the pitmaster version of a doctor making rounds.
He even greets the restaurant’s dog, Smokie.
“You’re a good boy,” Toomey chuckles. “That’s our mascot.”
Lifelong dream realized at 93
Born and raised in Houston, Toomey is a proud University of Houston alum and a former attorney.
His interest in barbecue was sparked as a kid of 12 when he would borrow bricks from neighbors to build a makeshift pit and smoke some meat.
More than eight decades later, Toomey finally fulfilled his lifelong dream at the age of 93 and opened his own barbecue restaurant and beer garden on Leeland Street.
The “M” in the J-Bar-M is a nod to his late wife, Micheline.
“Yeah, I loved her very much.”
Fans include UH basketball coach Kelvin Sampson, UT football coach Steve Sarkisian and MLB Hall-of-Famer Reggie Jackson.
Toomey’s grandson, Charles, works at the restaurant and said his grandpa is his hero. He loves hearing stories about his world travels.
“He’s amazing. Remember those Dos Equis commercials? About the most interesting man in the world?” says Charles. “That’s my grandfather — 100 percent.”
He said working with his grandfather is a daily blessing.
“He’s a consummate entrepreneur, never stops, never sleeps, and that’s probably why he’s still with us today at 97,” Charles said. “He wears us out. I tell people if I’m half the man he is when I’m older, I’ll be doing good.”
Toomey stays active by walking around his backyard 10 times each morning and then lifting weights. He said staying busy is the secret sauce to a long, happy life.
“Get off the porch, do something active, and they’ll enjoy life more. And live longer,” Toomey advised.
“And maybe eat more barbecue?” KHOU 11 anchor Ron Treviño asked?
“Yeah, they can do that too,” Toomey laughed. “I’ll go for that.”
