This articles was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Think ‘historic American cities’, and the likes of New Orleans and Boston may come to mind more readily than Los Angeles. But at the core of this sprawling metropolis lies a quiet square lined with Spanish colonial buildings. Exploring this area is the first step to discovering the often-overlooked Hispanic heritage of the city, dating back more than 200 years and refreshed with changing art, music and food trends.
Best for: cultural understanding
Perched high above the cobbles, halfway along Olvera Street in El Pueblo de Los Angeles Historic Monument, this political mural depicting a crucified figure was painted by socialist realist Mexican artist David Alfaro Siqueiros in 1932. A commentary on imperialism in the Americas, it was deemed too controversial and whitewashed just a few years after its creation. It has since been restored and can be seen on a visit to this museum, which also contextualises Siqueiros’s influences in the Chicano Movement that advocated for civil rights.
Best for: tacos
Chef Wes Avila raves about the traditional-style pork carnitas (pulled pork tacos) at this no-frills restaurant in east Los Angeles, and so does social media. Pair it with a visit to ‘taco row’ on Olympic Boulevard in Boyle Heights, where a clutch of taco trucks turn out some of the city’s best casual Mexican eats.
The hot dogs on Hollwood Boulevard are served with a hotter touch – jalapeños. Photograph by Tanveer Badal
Best for: history & dancing
This superb community centre and museum next to El Pueblo’s church provides a wealth of information on the Latin community in Los Angeles and further afield. Follow the history of the city’s explosive growth and learn how it impacted local communities, including the Tongva Indigenous people, who predated Spanish settlement. On Sunday afternoons, make for the El Pueblo bandstand outside to join the music and dancing.
Best for: Latin American art
A 45-minute drive south of El Pueblo in Long Beach, the only museum in the US dedicated to Hispanic art has over 1,300 permanent pieces and a sculpture garden. There are changing exhibitions, too, with recent names including Colombian artist Fernando Botero and LA-based multimedia creative Yolanda González. If Long Beach is too far, try the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, on central Wilshire Boulevard, for contemporary Latin American art.
Best for: upscale dining
Get a sense of the full spectrum of Hispanic culinary influence in one of LA’s upmarket neighbourhoods, West Hollywood. At this vegan eatery, the gooey queso fundido is made from house-made cashew cheese, the empanadas from soy chorizo and the tacos del mar from plant-based ‘fish’. It’s a see-and-be-seen spot at lunch, too, with high-flying locals meeting up to chat Hollywood business over the seriously delicious margaritas.
![a margarita being served over bar top](https://i.natgeofe.com/n/d83339d2-f4f6-4f1e-bc47-11d8da732d02/LA2.jpg)
El Paseo Inn, one of Los Angeles’s oldest Mexican bars, stays true to its heritage by serving nostalgic Mexican dishes and cocktails, including a variety of different margaritas. Photograph by Tanveer Badal
Best for: a unique night
Guaranteeing an evening out that you could only ever have in LA, this nightclub on Santa Monica Boulevard is a celebration of queer Latino cowboy culture. Dust off your hat and boots and come along to one of the popular drag nights, where you can dance to Latin pop until the wee hours. It’s been open since the 1990s and is still going strong.
Best for: design inspiration
This West Hollywood interiors showroom, owned by Latina Tricia Benitez Beanum, could have come straight from the pages of a design magazine. Peruse the rattan chairs, ceramic planters and Bohéme ‘Havana’ scent candles, and mentally design your dream LA mansion. Tricia is also the founder of UNREPD, a gallery for artists from underrepresented backgrounds that hosts pop-up exhibitions throughout the city.
Best for: homespun cooking
Another Wes Avila favourite, this nostalgic restaurant in Bell might be a bit of a schlep from the city centre, but it’s well worth the journey. Homely weekly specials rotate through the likes of enchiladas, chiles rellenos (stuffed peppers) and tacos. Jalisco-born chefs Jamie Martin del Campo and Ramiro Arvizu have a bit of a fan following for their giant stuffed-pepper dish chile en nogada.
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