While Los Angeles has been focused on Noma’s forthcoming Silver Lake residency, another Nordic chef will debut a fresh California-centric restaurant in the former Pico-Robertson Bicyclette space on Thursday, February 12. Marcus Jernmark, one of Sweden’s most notable chefs, will open his 42-seat restaurant, Lielle, with a simple four-course menu designed to shift with the seasons, all for $150 per person. Its sister restaurant, Marée, will open next door later in the year.
Jernmark is quick to say that Lielle is neither a Nordic take nor a tasting menu. The chef relocated his family to Los Angeles four years ago and speaks very much like a local. “One thing I’ve learned is that LA likes a big à la carte menu,” he says.
Jernmark’s resume reads like a who’s who of distinguished chefs: He was a partner and owner of New York’s Aquavit before a stint at chef Thomas Keller’s Per Se in 2014. Jernmark returned to Stockholm that same year to debut Restaurant Frantzén, followed by sister restaurant Zén in Singapore. Both acquired three Michelin stars. At Lielle, named after his only daughter, Jernmark’s goal is to introduce Los Angeles to an intimate space with no more than 80 guests per night, where he wants guests to trust in his process. “Lielle’s added value is to have something delicious that you wouldn’t have ordered otherwise,” he says.
Jernmark spent years traveling throughout California while developing a catering and private chef business in Los Angeles. For Lielle, he brought on Providence veteran Matthew Bowden as chef de cuisine; the pair collaborated on the opening menu. For the time being, diners can expect a 36-hour proofed bread course made with Rouge de Bordeaux wheat and cultured butter. The bread might include the Nordic-influenced vendace roe with beer-poached Dungeness crab, while an artichoke and guanciale starter uses black truffles, pine, and a vinaigrette laced with roasted yeast. Next up is the earthy, umami barbecued abalone with seaweed rice, Brussels sprouts, and maitake mushroom sauce.
“We serve the artichoke with winter citrus,” says Jernmark. “We barbecue it, place it in a citrus broth, and finish with black truffles. Though I like eating hot food, it’s served at room temperature.”
Jernmark will utilize yuzu pepper, bitter greens, and beets for an aged squab, and complete the meal by repurposing the citrusy shrub sea buckthorn in iced form, along with tea. The chef worked with former Lonely Oyster beverage director Phil South to curate a mostly Californian wine list.
Jernmark, with wife and creative partner Andrea, worked alongside architecture and design studio Lovers Unite to rework the former Bicyclette into something that felt more personal. “Bicyclette was the first restaurant I dined at when we moved to Los Angeles,” says Jernmark. “28+ is one of my favorites from the 90s. We went there twice a year, and I have fond memories of taking a staircase, just like at Lielle.” According to Jernmark, the dining room feels like an extension of a wine cellar without the cabinets or storage; instead, diners will find mirror-clad beams and a Nordic mid-century vibe. The space is meant to feel welcoming to celebratory meals and casual weekday diners alike.
When asked about his Nordic contemporary, Rene Redzepi, Jernmark says he believes there’s a bigger picture to focus on. “I love Rene and Noma and what they represent. The fact that they’re here right now shows where LA is on the world map,” he says. “It’s hot as fuck here. We should be thankful to be in one of the most interesting dining cities in the world, and that LA will benefit from having the food, sports, and all of this inspiration come to us.”
Lielle is open from 5 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday at 9575 West Pico Boulevard, Pico-Robertson, CA, 90035. Seven days a week will follow soon. Book a reservation on OpenTable.
