Chef Johnny Hernandez is on the go. Market forces pull one way. Neighborhood trends pull another. So the ever-evolving entrepreneur pivots.
The latest move: transforming his Mexico-themed bar into a Mexico-themed restaurant. On March 18, Casa Hernán Cantina becomes Alta Cocina. Same Southtown building. Different menu and decor.
“This will be my signature restaurant,” said Hernandez, who runs 11 concepts, including multiple locations of La Gloria. “We wanted an elevated dining experience. We want this to be the most unique interior Mexican food experience in San Antonio. And we have the beautiful space to do it.”
Alta Cocina — or “high kitchen” — is not a step across the border. It is a dive into the heart of Mexico. It is a softly lit venue of warm yellows, earthy reds and deep blues, iconic hues of the chef’s beloved country.
Hernandez created Casa Hernán Cantina to be, as he put it, “the most Mexican space in San Antonio.” Alta Cocina embellishes the concept with new artwork, furnishings and sculptures. The entrance is framed by a canopy of tree-like branches painted rosa Mexicana, a vibrant pink.
The biggest change is the menu. The cantina served botanas, Mexican appetizers. Alta Cocina offers a mole-focused menu, six Mexican sauces complimented with beef, chicken and game.
In addition to the classics — mole negro, mole rojo and mole verde — Atla Cocina will feature three contemporary sauces: mole blanco with chilies, plátano macho, habaneros and pine nuts; mole rosa with roasted beets, herbs and macadamia nuts; and mole de pistachio with roasted pistachios and pineapple.
“Moles are going to be celebrated here,” Hernandez said.
Other featured cuisine will include steak tampiqueña, tacos de ribeye, pork shank tamarindo, interior classic enchiladas and cazuela de mariscos, a seafood casserole.
“When you are seated, we’re going to make you a salsa at your table,” Hernandez said. “This will be an element of service we’re incorporating. I’ve also added bigger televisions because we still want to be a real bar.”
The old bar, fashioned from an enormous tree trunk in Tonalá Jalisco, has been extended with a piece purchased from Guadalajara. The new bar will feature a curated selection of hand-crafted cocktails, agave spirits, beers and premium wines.
“We will probably have the largest collection of Mexican wines in San Antonio,” Hernandez said. “But at the end of the day, we’re going from cantina to full-on restaurant. There’s a lot of work that goes into it because the restaurant needs a lot more infrastructure.”
The transformation project includes a walk-in cooler, an expanded kitchen, long polished wood tables, stone tables, Old Mexico seating, striking sculptures, colorful artifacts, new lighting and fresh landscaping.
“It’s got to be elegant,” Hernandez said.
Shifting market conditions necessitated change. Southtown eateries are competing with downtown restaurants. Customers are drifting to Pearl, Pullman Market and Northside establishments.
In July, Hernandez closed The Frutería after a 12-year run in Southtown. In June, he shuttered Burgerteca, also in Southtown. So it was time to bring change to 5,000 square-feet of ground floor space in his former residence on East Cevallos Street.
“We’re very aware of the Southtown vibe and what Southtown is going through,” Hernandez said. “So we’ve been thinking, ‘How do we reinvent ourselves? How do we reposition ourselves? How do we reintroduce new things and invite San Antonio back to Southtown for First Friday and 2nd Saturday?’
“There are a lot of reasons to stay in downtown San Antonio, if you’re visiting. There are a lot of reasons to go toward Pearl. But to me, Alta Cocina is a very compelling reason for folks to think about coming to Southtown.”
