After 50 years in business, designer John Atencio has witnessed the trade-show circuit change alongside the jewelry industry itself.
“Early on, the jewelry shows were primarily in New York, and that has evolved into a much larger jewelry presence in Las Vegas,” says Atencio. “But the shows themselves have remained steady and continue to be consistently needed within the industry.”
True to that sentiment, Atencio is attending this year’s JCK Las Vegas show, which opens today. It’s an event unlike any other—one that sees brands, designers, and manufacturers planning months in advance, especially when it comes to deciding what newness to unveil.
For Atencio, a milestone like a golden anniversary calls for a meaningful JCK debut: He is introducing three collections at the show, celebrating his eponymous brand’s legacy as well as its continued evolution.
In the Q&A below, Atencio reflects on building a lasting jewelry business over five decades. The photos offer a preview of collections he’s showing at JCK.
What does reaching 50 years in business mean to you?
It means exactly what it sounds like—everything just keeps evolving. In the beginning, I never had any idea or plan that it would become what it is today. Looking back over 50 years, it’s been nothing but evolution. The world, the industry, my business—everything keeps changing, including me.
It’s exciting to be able to look back over 50 years and see all the changes that have transpired. My hope is that it continues to evolve, and that the business can continue to keep up with the challenges and changes of today.
Looking back, what have been the biggest shifts in how retailers buy jewelry?
I think in the beginning, most jewelry stores were less interested in jewelry brands. They made up their own collections and relied less on designer or manufacturing brands to promote inside their stores. As time has gone on, they have become more focused on jewelry brands, or on creating their own brand within their retail space.
What has stayed surprisingly consistent across five decades in the industry?
As the market and the industry have changed dramatically over the last 50 years, surprisingly the customer and the desire for fine jewelry have remained the same. People’s enduring need for something beautiful, something that celebrates an occasion and makes them feel good, has remained very steady. Styles have changed, but not as much as one might think. I do believe people are more interested today in lasting quality and unique design.
What still excites you creatively?
Learning and yearning to come up with something unique and different, and staying within the confines of designing something that is distinctive, while remaining within the boundaries of creating a brand. Creating pieces that fit into the overall John Atencio collection but always deliver something that says “John Atencio design” to those outside of my company. The challenge of doing all the above while sitting down and essentially starting with nothing. I’ve always been somewhat outside of the box, and I’m continually challenged to stay outside of the box, while remaining inside my own brand.
What advice would you give newer jewelry companies trying to establish longevity in today’s market?
Fasten your seatbelt! Over the course of my 50 years of being in this industry, I have seen countless retail stores, manufacturers, and designers go out of business or call it quits. It’s not an easy industry to survive in, let alone prosper. Obviously there are those that continue to stay afloat, survive, and thrive, but unfortunately they are far and few between.
So I would say, try not just to survive but to change, grow, and stay within the market. I would also say to continue to financially capitalize your company. Because of rising diamond and commodity prices, it’s a real challenge to keep up with the capitalization necessary to stay in the jewelry business for the long haul.
What role do trade shows like JCK Las Vegas play in a company’s growth?
Like most businesses, the jewelry business is very relationship-oriented. After 50 years, it has been about building the business, but even more it’s been about building relationships. The shows are a vital part of getting to know the business and understanding all aspects of the industry.
I really don’t know if I could have stayed in business for 50 years without attending the shows, as well as exhibiting at them. For me, I’m happy and proud to have done both. Few businesses in the industry are involved in both manufacturing and design, as well as retail. We have done both successfully.
What do you hope longtime clients and new customers alike take away from your milestone anniversary?
That some things are worth fighting for. Staying in business for 50 years in any industry is a huge accomplishment. I don’t think it happens without many challenges, milestones, celebrations, and wonderful relationships. I’m just grateful for the opportunity, and I hope others feel welcome and part of my celebration. There are many businesses that sustained much longer, most of which are family businesses with generations working together to build something lasting. Passing on a long-standing business to the next generation is the best part of creating and building a 50-year-old jewelry design and retail branded business.
To all the industry, thank you for sharing in this business and story, in one way or another, with me.
Top: Paloma ring in 18k yellow gold with 0.43 ct. t.w. diamonds or 14k yellow gold with 0.95 ct. t.w. diamonds, $3,385 (small) or $6,535 (large); John Atencio
