Let’s stir the pot. Let’s talk about bagels.
There is a reason I haven’t written about a bagel spot in NYC Hidden Dining Gems yet. In a city like New York, I don’t want the death threats that will inevitably come with discussing what makes a bagel good. But, how can I really call myself a New York food writer without discussing the most iconic food the city has to offer? So, while I know there are plenty of true, tried and tested bagel shops in the city that have been standing for more than a century, I decided to try somewhere fairly new: Leon’s Bagels.
In a jet-lagged daze after returning from an international trip, I aimlessly strolled along Bedford Ave. in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, in search of a bacon, egg and cheese on an everything bagel. It’s my go-to ritual when I return to New York after traveling. As I walked around the sea of cool, hip young adults, I saw a white awning that read “Leon’s Bagels” in forest green letters.
I approached the window, because that’s all this storefront is (just a takeout window with a small bench seating area out front for sunnier days), and saw a fairly simplistic menu. But like a true New Yorker, my order would have been the same even if they had 300 bagels with 4,000 cream cheese options. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. I asked if they had hot sauce, and was told they instead offer chili crisp, an Asian-style textural hot sauce with crunchy bits of garlic, shallot and chili flakes throughout.
My litmus test for a good bagel comes down to texture. I want a slightly crispy shell without reaching the point of “crunchy,” paired with a toothsome, chewy interior. I also look for the right amount of seasoning, especially for an everything bagel. And if you skimp on my bacon, egg or cheese filling — fuhgeddaboudit.
As I waited for my order, I was lucky enough to catch the owner, Chris Taha, right out front. As he began to tell me his journey through the restaurant industry, he mentioned he used to run Summers, a juice and coffee shop not too far from Leon’s. They sadly have closed, but we immediately realized we had possibly met in a past life, since I frequented Summers for the more than10 years I lived in the neighborhood. Our kismet meeting was only further emphasized when he mentioned he also runs Father Knows Best in Bushwick, a bar and restaurant that’s still open and yet another stop I frequented when I lived in that neighborhood. Meeting Chris was a friendly reminder that New York is indeed the biggest small town.
During the peak of the COVID-19 epidemic, Taha considered going back to school or changing career paths, but a light bulb flicked when he thought back to his roots of working in a bagel shop in Palm Springs, Calif., as a kid. With his expertise in the restaurant industry, he decided to open a bagel shop here, a bold move in New York. His idea was he could bring a familiar food that everyone loves at a reasonable price during a financially stressful time.
Taha wanted to avoid the stress that comes with sometimes entering a busy bagel shop, specifically wishing to avoid confusing lines and disgruntled employees screaming “NEXT!” I laughed at the relatable sentiment. He called the shop “Leon’s Bagels” after his godfather, Leon.
“He was a guy that brought neighbors together, and helped create community on a micro level,” he tells me.
It seems Leon has passed the gift of creating community on to Chris. As we are chatting, a woman eavesdropping interrupts to tell me these are her favorite bagels in New York and she won’t go anywhere else.
While it can be hard to argue that a new bagel spot could hit all of the old-school marks, Leon’s is doing just that. There’s something nostalgic about just the look of it, with its clean-cut awning and bold letters, which can be credited to Jenny Taha, the woman behind the creative marketing and Chris’ wife.
We all know there is indeed such a thing as a bad bagel, but luckily, you won’t find one at Leon’s. While I went in blind and had neutral expectations, Leon’s quickly landed among my top five bagels in New York. It’s chewy in that satisfying way that only New York bagels can provide. It’s got body, it’s got soul, and the chili crisp, a nod to Chris’ Asian roots, gives it heart.
Speaking of the chili crisp, if you’re into heat, you should absolutely go for it. That first bite of my BEC at Leon’s gave me a sigh of relief after my nearly 30-hour commute back to the city. There’s really no place like home, and when your home is New York, only a good bagel can fully welcome you back.
Address: 128 Bedford Ave., Suite B, Brooklyn, N.Y. 11249
(Manhattan location: 169 Thompson St., Suite B, New York, N.Y. 10012)
Phone: (718) 290-9399
Hours: Monday-Thursday 8 a.m.-3 p.m.; Friday-Sunday 8 a.m.-4 p.m.
Prices: Single bagel $2; Assorted Dozen Bagels $24; Sandwiches $2-$15; Coffee $3.50-$5
Takeout and delivery available; no reservations.
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