For years, Cleveland has struggled to create and support the kind of bustling food hall that other cities seem to take for granted. The Market Hall at Van Aken District is still relevant and thriving after more six years, but the Ohio City Galley failed in less than half that time.
One of the most delicious surprises of the new year is CentroVilla25, a Latin-themed food hall and marketplace in Clark-Fulton. After literally decades of planning, the neighborhood hub is finally a reality, filled with the sights, scents and sounds of a vibrant indoor plaza.
The endeavor – a $12-million adaptive reuse project – was spearheaded by Jenice Contreras, President of Northeast Ohio Hispanic Center for Economic Development, who was bold enough to ask the question, “Why not us?”
“Why can’t we have something that’s nice and high-end and amazing to celebrate culture and diversity,” she says. “We know that Cleveland and Northeast Ohio is built for this. It was a missing piece. It feels natural. It feels organic. It feels like authentic.”
Contreras says that while some of the food vendors might be familiar to attendees of the La Placita gatherings that have taken place in the neighborhood for years, most are new startups that have committed to three-year leases. In addition to providing the low-rent spaces, the economic development center offers operators support in areas of financing, technical assistance and accountability.
With eight food kiosks, the Mercado Verde is “at capacity,” Contreras says. After a handful of recent visits, I’ve barely scratched the surface of available food options – and there is plenty more to look forward to.
Sazón Latino specializes in Cuban food and offers a large selection of ready-to-eat foods. I enjoyed a large portion of beef and potato stew ($19) served with black beans and rice, yuca with garlic, and plantains. Other options include roast pork, fried pork belly, and grilled chicken. Don’t leave without a couple hot and crisp empanadas (beef or chicken), croquettes (fish or chicken) or stuffed potato (beef or chicken).
Antojitos Salvadoreños y Mas offers Salvadoran food, including a large selection of griddled-to-order pupusas. A bean and cheese-filled pupusa ($3.50) comes with small sides of curtido and salsa. This kiosk also sells tamales de elote ($2.50), a sweet and moist version made with fresh corn and butter that is doused in crema.
Tombao58, a Latin American restaurant, makes stellar arepa sandwiches stuffed with all sorts of fillings, including a breakfast version with eggs, ham and cheese. The “pelua” ($12.99) nets a split arepa filled with shredded beef, cheese and salsa. The stand also sells cachapas, Venezuelan corn pancakes with various fillings.
Flying Pig Tacos is quickly making a name for itself thanks to exceptional tacos, sold by the item ($5) or in various combos with rice and beans. Meats like carne asada, birria, chicken and chorizo are tucked into soft, warm corn tortillas with onions, cilantro and a choice of salsa. The kiosk also offers burritos, tortas and nachos.
Other food stands include Algo Diferente, serving Puerto Rican snacks, Panitos, a Salvadoran bakery, Lara’s Cakes, and Cafe Roig, your source for all things caffeinated.
Luis Roman, who for years ran the wonderful Campus Grille in Berea, will soon bring his Hola Island Provisions operations to CV25. The chef’s line of Cuban, Puerto Rican and Jamaican marinades are currently sold at 50 different markets around the state and he plans to move production of those items to CentroVilla. He also plans to manufacture empanada discos, or doughs, for wholesale as well as opening a bodega.
Visitors to CentroVilla25 might spot a shimmering state-of-the-art commercial kitchen behind glass just off the main seating area. Roman says that the space, which is rentable by the hour or month, is another way that the complex will help drive economic growth in the neighborhood.
“This commercial kitchen is made for the community,” says Roman. “There are a lot of great ideas, a lot of entrepreneurs out here and with the kitchen you can now have a product.”
In addition to the equipment and space, the commercial kitchen comes with mentors who help home cooks navigate topics such as licensing, insurance and food safety.
By the end of May, just in time for CentroVilla25’s grand opening celebration, a tropical-themed bar will open on the northern side of the building where a large outdoor plaza is taking shape. Come summer, the garage doors will go up, live bands will take to the stage, and residents of Clark-Fulton will gather to enjoy fresh-made mojitos and conversation under the clear blue sky.
CentroVilla25
3140 W 25th St.
cv25.org
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