Ian Brandt has introduced plant-based eating to generations of Salt Lake City locals. Sage’s Cafe, cozy yet elegant, opened in 1999. Vertical Diner, comfort food in a casual setting, opened in 2007. His latest venture is Vertical Deli, where he’s looking forward to expanding his reach.
Growing up in Philadelphia, Brandt was raised in deli culture. Opening one in Salt Lake City seemed obvious. Brandt likes many things about delis, but he mostly appreciates the flexibility and the opportunity to bring good food to the masses. He digs the home-grown vibe, serving healthy, delicious plant-based fare to everyone from the elite to those just scraping by. “It feels good to run a business where you’re not eliminating people,” he says.
“The whole point is to feed people and let them know we’re here for them,” Brandt explains. Providing access to plant-based foods has always been the mission behind his restaurants. “You don’t have to be a non-profit to have a purpose,” he says. When it comes down to it, Brandt wants to feed people delicious food that’s healthy, good for animals and benefits the environment.
The world has changed since Brandt opened Sage’s Cafe.“The vegan movement is going through a lot of changes,” explains Brandt. He’s noticed that the nation’s political divide has created more animosity towards the term “vegan.” It’s a challenging time to run a vegan business. Omni restaurants now offer plant-based options, which takes business away from vegan establishments, Brandt says. The pandemic also really changed the way people eat out. Customers want their meals delivered, and a streamlined to-go option.
Brandt is ready to face this new reality with Vertical Deli. “The concept is a good start,” he says. Later this summer, the drive-thru will open as the pastry cases grow. Brandt looks forward to increasing his catering business, offering delivery, and adding beer and wine to the menu. He has a lot of ideas about how to make this business successful, and they all sound exciting.
I asked Brandt what he thinks of the demand for a vegan deli in Salt Lake City. “A deli can be anything,” he replied. “The selection will evolve, and we’ll have a lot of really great options. It’s not a finished concept right now,” Brandt says. “We have a big, broad menu. We’re open from 9 am to 9 pm every day.” The deli cases are packed with grab-and-go items (both savory and sweet), and the shelves are full of retail, like pancake mix and seasonings. The prices are modest. Vertical Deli will fill a niche in Salt Lake’s dining scene, making nutritious food more accessible.
Opening month, the deli boasts an expansive menu with sandwiches, subs, burgers, salads, and bowls. You’ll find classics from Vertical Diner, like hand-cut fries, seasonal specials, and your favorite sandwiches and burgers, like the Vertical Reuben ($8.25) made with grilled seitan, artisan kraut, sliced vegan cheese, and tangy Vertical Sauce on rye bread.
Their famous Tender Tigers ($10 +) also make an appearance. Flavorful meatless chicken wings with delectable dips will change anyone’s mind who thinks animal-free food is boring. Kids’ meals are only $9.50 and include child-size versions of their Cheeseburger, Chicken Nuggets, Mac and Cheese, and more.
Breakfast is served all day, and the menu is on point, featuring a Breakfast Sandwich with your choice of vegan bacon, sausage, or ham ($6) and a few different breakfast burritos. Opt for the Kings Peak ($8) if you’re extra hungry — your choice of breakfast meat over tofu scramble, breakfast potatoes, and smothered in cheese sauce. Feeling sweet? French Toasties ($6) are the answer — French toast sticks with powdered sugar and syrup.
There are plenty of desserts to satisfy your sweet tooth. You have to try the Chai milkshake ($7.50) — it’s incredible. Avalanches and soft-serve are coming soon. The pastry case is loaded, and Brandt says there is more on the way. I tried the Peanut Butter Brownie and it was amazing.
Vertical Deli is what Salt Lake City needs right now — an inexpensive, delicious, casual restaurant. Order at the counter and enjoy your food on the patio or inside. There’s plenty of room, and the tables and chairs are comfy. Service is fast and friendly. The prices are beyond reasonable. The reviews are good, and people are excited about having a centrally located vegan restaurant. There’s also plenty of parking. Most importantly, the food is really tasty. You don’t have to be vegan or vegetarian to enjoy delicious, healthy food, or to support local restaurants that care about us and the rest of the world.
Vertical Deli
3245 S. State St., South Salt Lake, UT 84115
Feature Image: Ian Brandt, owner of Vertical Diner, recently opened Vertical Deli. All photos by John Taylor.
