Madrid Spain, sunrise city skyline at Cibeles Fountain Town Square
As a wine writer who frequents Madrid, I’ve discovered this elegant capital is one of the world’s best eating cities. Despite its enviable regal flair, Madrid has lower tourism pressure, making dining out more affordable. Though several Spanish regions lay claim to the origin of tapas, this appetizer tradition is firmly ingrained in Spanish culture. Must-eats include ribbons of salty-sweet Jamón Ibérico, crispy patatas bravas, blistered padrón peppers, and cod-stuffed croquetas, all washed down with delicious, affordable wine.
No photos, no reservations, and service as creaky as the century-old flooboards, the charms of La Venencia are inarguable. It’s one of Madrid’s best sherry and tapas bars for evoking the vibe of a traditional tabanco (tavern) in Jerez de la Frontera. Sometimes it’s jam-packed, and on other occasions, a spindly wooden table, plate of manchego and chorizo, and carafe of fino are as easy to come by as paying the ultra-affordable check.
Spanish style tapas shrimps seasoned with olive oil, garlic, and parsley.
I never let the crowded brightly lit utilitarian space dissuade me from entering–if anything, these signs point to La Paloma’s singular focus: fresh, affordable shellfish and cheap draft beer. When I’m wandering the La Latina neighborhood, I’ll pop in for shrimp on the grill (gambas plancha), a plate of clams (almejas), and a glass of white vermouth. I’ll do as the Spanish and eat standing at the bar, then be on my way.
Man buying fresh fruit salad from market stall trader in the Mercado San Anton.
I love markets, especially in Madrid where I can tapas crawl between stalls while sipping a glass of Rioja in the comfort of indoors. This upmarket food hall in the festive Chueca neighborhood has a traditional market on the ground floor and vendors on the second floor offering a range of snackable classics from salty-sweet jamón, crunchy croquetas, and Spanish cheese—there’s abundant seating, too, when I want to eat and rest my feet.
People eat and drink at Mercado San Miguel.
Madrid has fantastic food markets (mercados), but none offer the historic wrought-iron-and-glass aesthetic of San Miguel. First opened in 1916 and then renovated in 2009, the market attracts hordes of tourists, which raises prices. Yet, the festive ambiance, 20 food stalls, and plentiful seating make up for it. My New York flights land earlier than hotel check-in, so I’ll pass the morning at San Miguel—when it’s least crowded— with a glass of Cava, jamón bocadillo (sandwich) and a fried seafood cone.
I don’t go here for friendly service, though a little Spanish goes a long way with brusque, busy staff. Instead, I make a beeline for the 131-year-old vintage vibes and Madrid’s best tortilla Española, a fluffy succulent sensation of eggs and potatoes served in a pie wedge. When in season, I order the artichokes. Steeped in olive oil until soft, then crisped on a hot plancha, they changed my mind about this thorny vegetable. The place gets busy, so I check the back room for tables.
La Perejilla
Everyone should wander down Cava Baja on an empty stomach at least once. This is The, with a capital T, street for tapas, and La Perejila stands out from the crowd. I know I’ve arrived when I spy the forest green doors trimmed in holiday red. The whimsical ambiance continues inside with chandeliers, trailing pothos plants, and a mural of flamenco dancers. If I’m on a tapas crawl, I’ll order lighter dishes like juicy gazpacho and octopus dusted in sweet paprika with a carafe of sangria.
Madrid is chock-full of old school tapas bars. While fun, sometimes I crave a contemporary twist in a seated restaurant. For that, I head to Vi Cool. The menu changes regularly and weaves international flavors into Spanish dishes like fried prawns with curry and mint or kimchi chicken wings. While the wine list is short, Vi Cool offers a nice range from Albariño to Tempranillo for an incredible 5-6 dollars a glass. For travelers with dietary restrictions, the menu offers an ingredient key.
